Minnesota Roofing Contractors and Repair Company

WELL 10 BY TEN EQUALS A SQUARE OF SHINGLE PLUS YOU WILLNEED TO MAKE CAPS AND EXTRA SHINGLE FOR THE UNDERLAYMENT ON THE FIRST COURSE PLUS A SOLDIER COURSE IF YOUR USING ONE. FIND OUT IF YOU NEEDTO USE WEATHER SHEILD TOO SOME STATES ITS MANDATORY NOW SO ICE DOESN NOT BUILD UP IN YOUR GUTTER . DONT SLIP OFF THE ROOF THERE NUDWIK AND READ THE DIRECTIONS

Is the shed already built except for the roof? If so, you can order truss (usually 3 in 1 drop is standard) to accommodate the roof. Spacing should be on 16 or 24, depending on what you use for roof decking. OSB or plywood will give strength and if your snow load is not too heavy your 3 in 1 drop should suffice.
Get a friend, lift truss into place on top of walls, toenail in or use spacing blocks (2X4’s are good) or use metal fasteners you can buy at do it yourself places for where bottom of truss and top of wall meet. I would make sure I had a one foot overhang, so mention that when ordering truss.
You can make truss if you want, but it is a hassle doing the angle cuts and using the fastening plates to hold it together.

Make sure truss are level vertically, run purlins at 90 degrees to truss to hold them in place, then add your roofing decking, then some form of moisture barrier (tar paper, rubber roll roofing, etc.,), then start in on your shingles at the overhang. Follow directions on shingle package for start, and you could consider using the new first course roll of shingling material. Simply roll it out even with the edge of the roof, then start your shingles over that.
All this presumes you have walls up, are square (measure from corner to corner (measurement should be the same) at top of walls, and nothing else protruding from existing walls or perhaps flat roof if you have one now.

Start off with felt, 1 roll of 15# felt will work just fine. Cover the entire roof with this. You have more than 100sqft if it’s a gabled roof (regular pitched slope roof).. so pick up 2 squares of shingles (unless you can buy split-squares from your local building materials supplier.. most only sell full squares). Start at the bottom and tack down your first run of shingles. Once this is down, stagger the next row by cutting a shingle in half. Overlap the shingles to the “tar line” on the shingle row below. Continue this all the way to the top on both sides, then use your hip shingles to top it off. If you use 3 tab shingles, its best to hit them with 3 nails or staples, one per tab.

Use Electro-Galvanized roofing nails of appropriate length.

Tarp or plastic on ground 4′ to 5′ feet wide around building to catch old nails, etc… Scrape off all old shingles. Large roofs, it seemed easiest to scrape off old shingles with an old corn shovel. When project finished, use large magnet (on a rope, if possible) to pick up remaining nails from grass.

If roof has prominent holes/cracks, apply tar in a tube with a caulking gun to fill in spots. Keep tar handy to apply over any exposed nail heads and sealing the finished nailed shingles around the flashing.

For this size of roof you should be able to keep the rows straight. If unsure, do exact measure on both sides of the roof side and snap a chalk line on your tar paper or have small nails with a string for making a straight line. Tar up the holes.

Put flashing strips onto edges. Next is staple the tar paper onto the roof. Shingle over the tar paper. Both tar paper and shingles needs to be started at the lower edge of the roof and work upward toward peak. Shingles are side by side. Second row put shingles so they are alternate like overlapping shingle is located in middle of the lower placed shingle. Third row will look like first row. Etc… Trip off right & left side edges (of every other row especially) with utility knife. Peak area, use upper half of shingles that you cut and nail them sideways so is overlaping the previous nailed tile half.

Attach eves & downspout.

Start off with your 15# felt. Run a row across the bottom of the roof and continue up the roof. Overlap each row 6 inches. You don’t need to worry about caulking or anything. If water gets underneath your roofing material, you’ve got a leak anyway. Just do a good job with the installation and don’t worry about the underlayment (unless it’s damaged or wet or soft). Your first row of shingles will require two layers making sure you offset the seams. Work your way up the roof making sure the shingle edges on ajoining rows don’t come within 12 ” of each other (Stagger the seams). The starter row should overhang 1-1/2 inches off the plywood. The sides should overhang the same (assuming steel facia). When you get to the top, don’t use the field shingles for the ridge row. You need to order the proper amount of ridge row. This is a thinner shingle that will bend easier than the field shingle. The very last ridge shingle will have two exposed nails that you can caulk if you’d like.
Points that need to be cleared up:
1. Your shingles are Timberline, not Timberland
2. You dont need 2 squares, you need 3 bundles( 1 square) plus one more bundle for the waste for a total of 4 bundles of field shingles. See if you can find an open bundle of ridge accessories as you won’t need a whole bundle.
3. Don’t caulk anything except any vents that you install.
4. Ice and Water shield doesnt stop ice dams from forming, it helps stop leaks once they do form. Since your not heating your shed, you won’t need Ice and Water shield.
5. Your shingles don’t have tabs…Four nails per shingle.

Good Luck and do not fall !!

Mike